It’s five in the morning and the Howrah -New Delhi Express
casually slips into the Mughal Sarai junction five minutes ahead of time after
a relentless run the previous night. The diminutive woman in the lower berth
opposite to mine is combing her hair with a languid dispassion; she has to look
good. It’s the most important festival of the year and she’s visiting her in-
laws. On this day, I’ve been told by my
mother, a long time back and even she doesn’t know how long, the man who
exemplifies manhood in the religion I was born into, came back home after 14
years, after rescuing his wife and being satisfied about her purity (which she
had to prove by walking through fire), who also incidentally epitomizes womanhood
in the same religion, from a learned demon with ten heads. As the train slows
down, the woman hurriedly stuffs a steel tiffin box and a steel glass into a
blue bag that reads Vogue and wakes up her husband and son. The train finally
comes to a halt after a few minutes of uninspired limbering, and I clumsily get
down from my middle berth. The station is like any other big station in the
country- neutral and intriguing. I’m the odd one out. I am brown skinned,
alone, and with a rucksack. The tempo
wallas are confused if I should be haggled. My destination, Google Maps
tells me, is 19 kilometres away. I scramble on to a tempo without much fuss; I
am to make myself comfortable next to the driver. A family of three is on the
rear seat. No one talks in the journey- maybe it’s the incomplete sleep or the
chill of the morning. The road is broad but bumpy. Outside I see people with lotas, small teashops just coming to
life, and a lot of trucks. The tempowalla says Madarchod every time a truck overtakes us. It’s still dark to see
much and I hope it keeps that way for I have a date with the sun today. I am
the last one to get off the tempo. I have more distance to cover but that’s all
he would take me for twenty rupees, he sternly says. There are more people on
the road now. The tempowallas pursue
me more enthusiastically this time. I decide on the oldest looking one. I’m
alone this time, except for a few cans of desi
ghee . “Assi Ghat”, I say as confidently as can. This journey’s shorter but
livelier- the old man is jovial and keen to talk and I gladly comply. He does
insist, a few times, on showing me around, but is not overly pushy. I am
dropped off with suggestions about good guesthouses nearby.
I can finally see the river, but I’m not exactly flushed over with
sentiments. She seems sizably smaller than the one back home. I’m late for my
date but the my date is generous enough to not completely get spent with her
other lovers. He is still pristine enough for me to bask, for a while, in his
mellow orange arms. We make love on the boat for a full hour and a half, though
I do get distracted time and again by a few white women also seeking him. I
want more but my boatman says that is all I get for what I have paid.
There is a slight issue of breakfast, which I settle with two cups
of tea and four cigarettes, and some forecasting of Egypt’s future with a
Jordanian who likes Israeli coffee. Hotel hunting turns out to be tougher than
I had anticipated. The ones I can afford are full and the ones I can’t are full
too. Finally, I find myself a barsati
in a guesthouse owned by an old man with a cranky wife. The room is basic with
a shared bathroom, which I’m to share with an American lady who played the harmonium
and sang what she said were ragas from 6 in the morning for an hour.
My date’s right over my head as I step out of the hotel after a
bath and exchanging pleasantries with my American neighbor. I’m hungry and I
step into a place called the Brown Bread Café. The place is full of foreigners;
I sit on one of the couches on the floor, and order a medium sized cold coffee,
Mozzarella cheese and chicken lasagna. I light a cigarette and read a short
called The Judgement by Franz Kafka as I wait for the food. An excessively
touchy young white couple sits in front of me. The guy is doing something on
his tablet and the girl, who looks barely out of her teens, is feeling his
crotch over his cargo pants. The food takes a long time to come; a girl whom I
later discover to be French asks me for a cigarette. I’ve just bought an
expensive brand and am not too keen to share but I am too surprised to refuse.
The food is mediocre and the coffee is bland, and I’m far from full.
I’m slightly tired by know but I resist taking a rickshaw, I know
this has to be done on foot. I walk down the crowded narrow lanes. The
demography on the streets bears a stark contrast – old devout God fearing
Tamils and young carefree foreigners. But, perhaps, the quest of both converged
somewhere on a greater common point I, too, wish to understand some day. I
double down a long flight of stairs, they call the Ghats, and sit down as I reach somewhere midway. This Ghat is
called the Meer Ghat .The afternoon
crowd is scarce and a few metres away from me, a sadhu is pulling on a Chillum with a placid indifference and Shiela Ki Jawani is pompously playing on
his portable radio. I wonder if listening to Shiela Ki Jawani is against being
a sadhu and make a mental note to try
it myself sometime. I take a huge sip
from my mineral water bottle and decide to walk on. I walk northwards and reach
the biggest and the busiest ghat- the Daswasmedh
Ghat. Things here are markedly different and there is a flurry of
activities- the ghat is being cleaned by a mechanized water sprinkler in
preparation of the evening Aarti. I take
a few photos on my phone as a group of shy kids poses for a huge white man with
a DSLR. A well-dressed boy, appearing in his mid-20s, approaches me from
nowhere and asks if I want hash. I refuse politely. I’ve been warned by my
hotel manager that the hash they sell on the ghats is overpriced and impotent. This ghat is too congested for my
liking and as I walk further northwards, the crowd begins to dwindle. My legs
are beginning to let me down now and I toil up the stairs to exit through the Narad Ghat when a boy with shortly
cropped blonde hair asks me for a light. He offers me a joint and we get
talking. He’s from Israel and I enquire if he likes A Hundred Years of
Solitude, which is, I see, nestled next to him on the stairs. We talk about
Love in the Times of Cholera, my favourite of Marquez and end up smoking three
more joints. I’m stoned by now and desperately hungry. He suggests me a place a
two-minute walk away called the Shiva Café run by a Nepali lady who chain-smoked.
The food turns out to be the best I’ve had in quite some time and it is
insanely cheap for a place that catered to foreign tourists.
The food has cleared my head and I move southwards again for the
burning ghat or the Manikarna Ghat. I am taken aback by the casualness of
things here. As the corpses burn, people drink tea and talk about Mayawati as if it’s a big bonfire and I realize, perhaps, no loss in
the world’s big enough to stop the living from living. It is strange to see a
human body burn. The remnant ash looks
as if a child has tried to scatter it in the shape of a sleeping man and the smoke of the pyre is so
thick , I am scared it has charred flesh which will smear my face
black and red. I am unnerved and make a quick exit back to Daswashmedh Ghat for
the evening Aarti.
My date looks subtly splendid now- like a woman, glowing with
satisfaction, stepping out of the bed to dress after a whole night of
passionate lovemaking. I sneak through, between people and buffaloes to go back
to the river. The fluorescent sheath of my date’s reminiscence on the grey
water reminds me of home and the many evenings I have spent on the riverside
with friends and I’m drowned for a few minutes in a mysterious melancholy. I
fight back a strong urge to call my parents for tonight is my night and I have
to wade through it alone.
I’m woken up from my reverie
by a nudge on my shoulder and I turn back to see the freckled face of the
French girl who had borrowed my cigarette. We sit down side by side for the
evening Aarti and eat popcorn her friend buys from a girl with cleft lips. The
evening Aarti is like an epic dance drama witnessed by thousands of people from
the ghats as well as from the river on boats. Priests wearing spotlessly clean
white dhotis skillfully perform lithe
tricks with magnificent brass diyas
on the edge of the river to soulful renditions of shlokas on loud microphones. The pace really picks up through the hour-long extravaganza, that is way beyond just religion,
and the climax is beautiful. As I sit down, half an hour later, in the small
smoky shop drinking tea and eating butter toasts, listening to the French woman
describing what she terms as a ridiculously overpriced breakfast buffet in a
hotel in Delhi, I am happy for the last two hours were more than well spent-
the evening Aarti was an overwhelming
experience and, although, my phone’s camera failed me, images of the spectacle will always remain with me.
I part ways with the girls and take a rickshaw back to Assi Ghat,
much more confident this time. The rickshaw
walla is drunk but he rides steadily enough. The city’s bright and
beautiful tonight, almost like an amateur artist’s impression of heaven. Ayodhya,
on the night, where Ram had returned to must have been equally bright too but
someone must have forgotten to light the area where the Babri Masjid was to be
built later. It’s late but the streets are full of people, playing with crackers
and each other, and everyone looks so happy ; I think of family dinners at my home
on my birthdays when all of us
seemingly happily eat pudding
together and in the lump of the frozen
rice, so many people and emotions were frozen my naïve 12 year self could never
comprehend . But I know I’ve grown up
now, grown up enough to get lost under
the night sky, ablaze with rockets and fireworks. The dogs are scared and can hardly be seen. I
wonder if they see more than us, beyond the apparent brilliance.
I eat Thukpa for dinner in a roof top restaurant near my
guesthouse, where Bob Marley plays, but the crackers overpower the Reggae
singer’s serene voice. He doesn’t seem to mind though. During the walk back to
the hotel, I have to jump several times to dodge stray bombs. The kids giggle
at my awkward moves, embarrassing me. My guesthouse is demurely decorated with a few diyas but it is cold in
comparison to the festivities around. I climb up three floors to reach my room
on the roof. The phrase Room on the Roof raises
my spirits, I instantly light a cigarette, and in the haze of the smoke, I see
more than I have in a long time- it must be all a great cosmic conspiracy that
all the better hotels are full. Maybe I am magically meant to stay in this room on the roof just as
Ruskin Bond had in his struggling days. Maybe I am transcendentally supposed to just sit by the small window and watch the river
change colours and dream about the girl I had held hands with and seen the
river devour the sun back home. The roof suddenly lights up in the glow of an Anaar
set alight by the old owner’s grandchildren and the roof’s more delightful than
the most experienced artist’s impression of heaven can ever be, and, I know, I’ve
seen light. I’ll come back here very
soon again. I go inside my room, take out my notebook and write a poem about
the room on the roof in a guesthouse at Assi Ghat in a place called Benares.